Tell the good from the mediocre

3/21/2008 2:20:10 AM   Source:That's Beijing    Author:    [Font Size:Bigger Middle Smaller]

If you don't know your fettuccine from your farfalle, fear not: A page of illustrated pasta shapes makes this inexpensive chain's generous menu of Italian classics easy to navigate. But separating the good from the mediocre requires more attention.

Pizza in Beijing certainly gets better than PastaritO's salty anchovy and caper Napoletana (RMB 53), which needed more oven time, and the tagliatelle Bolognese (RMB 29) was stodgily reminiscent of childhood microwave dinners. However, our other dishes were much better. We were sold on the textured flavors of the pesto-laden eggplant, bell pepper and zucchini salad (RMB 29), and loved the Parma ham bite of the tortellini with mushroom sauce (RMB 49).

The interior might be viewed as a reflection of the food: generally pleasant, warm red hues complementing the wood flooring and furniture, but with abrupt reminders, such as the overly enthusiastic placement of the PastaritO logo, that this is a chain diner.

Pastarit O
Daily 11am-10pm.
L216, Zhongguancun Gate City Mall, Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District
8248 6172

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